One crew · attic floor · R-38
How a blown-in attic install works in West Palm Beach.
The order matters. Seal, baffle, then blow. Doing it backwards is how attics end up looking full and still leaking air.
- 01
You call, or you send the planner
Neighborhood, attic square feet if you know them, and a photo of the hatch helps. We will tell you if it sounds like a top-up or a removal before anyone drives to West Palm Beach.
- 02
We look at the deck
Dry and stable, we can blow. Wet, stained, or soft, we stop. Insulation does not fix a roof leak, and cellulose on a wet deck makes it worse. A roofer goes first.
- 03
Air seal, then baffles
Top plates, wire holes, open chases, and the hatch frame. Then baffles at every soffit so the new fill cannot roll into the vent. Bath fans and flues get dams so they stay clear.
- 04
Blow to a marked R-38
Fiberglass or cellulose, chosen for the height you actually have under the ties. Depth marks go on a truss where you can see them from the hatch. Florida’s code floor is R-30. We install past it.
- 05
The hatch is part of the job
Weatherstrip on the stop, foam on the back of the panel. An unsealed hatch undoes a perfect attic in the one place the hallway can feel it.
- 06
You can check it
Open attic, one day. Knee walls, a tight historic hatch, or a removal, longer, and we say so up front. You should be able to read the depth without crawling to the eave.